Sunday, November 23, 2014

Annother Thunderbolt!

Republic Aviation's P-47 Thunderbolt, also known as the "Jug", was the largest, heaviest, and most expensive fighter aircraft in history to be powered by a single reciprocating engine. It was one of the main United States Army Air Forces (USAAF) fighters of World War II, and served with other Allied air forces. The P-47 was very effective in air combat but proved especially adept at ground attack. It had eight .50-caliber machine guns, four per wing. When fully loaded the P-47 could weigh up to eight tons. A modern-day counterpart in that role, the A-10 Thunderbolt II, takes its name from the P-47.

I needed another break from the last P-47D. So another P-47D would cure that empty space on the workbench. lol. Tamiya's Jug is just about one of the best fitting kits in 1/48th. No fit issues so far. I started with the power-plant, the Pratt & Whitney R-2800 painted in Alclad II Aluminum with details painted with Vallejo paints as well a acrylic wash. The ignition harness wires are .010 and .015 lead wire painted black, lastly I fitted a Pratt & Whitney photo-etch logo on the bottom of the case.

The cockpit was like any other project, primed with Mr. Surfacer 1200 thinned with lacquer thinner and leveling thinner for a smooth surface. Gunze field green was followed up with Vallejo paints and bits n' pieces of Eduard photo etch from past Jug projects. I decided to wire up the back of the instrument panel with lead wire, not knowing it would be unseen by the glare-shield armored panel. lol. two hours of drilling and screaming for something that will never been seen. At least I know what's 'under the hood'.

The kit come with several options for gun-sights; the Mark VII Illuminated sight was enhanced with a Eduard sight and glass projector masked with liquid tape for spraying. The pilots seat was further enhanced with Eduard PE belts and given a pin wash of a mix of AK interactive enamel wash.

Next, sleep,  cockpit dry-fit and fuselage joining...













Tuesday, November 04, 2014

Tamiya 1/72 Mitsubishi A6M2b Zero Fighter (Zeke)





From the early days of the Second Sino-Japanese War to the end of hostilities in the Pacific, the Mitsubishi Zero served as the Imperial Japanese Navy's main front line fighter. The first major mass-produced version was the A6M2b, which was equipped with 50cm folding wingtips, landing hook, and radio direction finder for carrier-based operations. Flown by expert pilots, the A6M2b took part in daring operations such as the Pearl Harbor attack and the invasion of the Philippines. It's 3,000km range, powerful 20mm cannon armament, and legendary maneuverability quickly earned the respect of Allied aircrews.

There not much to say about this little gem of a kit other than. WOW! It's one of my first 1/72 scale kits that I done in decades. No fit issues at all, reliable Tamiya fit and simple parts with allot of detail. The only aftermarket item was the addition of Eduard pre-cut masks for the canopy.

Painting was as per the instructions with Tamiya paints mixed up. Weathering was with AK washes.
 
























Full photo set available: https://www.flickr.com/photos/cramsey/sets/72157648720157410/

P-47D Finished

After months and months of sitting in a clear box, I've finally finished my Jug. This project presented me with many challenges to overcome. One being a natural metal finish. I've never really attempted one and this is a first that come out OK.




Full image set: https://www.flickr.com/photos/cramsey/sets/72157643931471623/

Wednesday, August 27, 2014

Cobblestone Street

One night I awoke to a idea, and headed straight for the bench. A cobblestone street was that idea. I had no kits for this, so I would need to scratch build something.

I took a old piece of plexiglass for the base. A tad bit small but it could work. I then needed some cobblestones. I tried making them from plaster and cutting them individually. They looked like rocks too much. I grabbed a sheet of poster board. Ripped off the paper covering and started slicing small bricks. A little white glue and about 5 hours later I had a cobblestone street. I needed a vertical element to give depth. A couple parts from the spares bin and some brass wire created the streetlamp. Tamiya paints for the colors and AK/MIG pigments and washes for the effects. Now I just have to create a lamp shade...




Flickr photo set: https://www.flickr.com/photos/cramsey/sets/72157646916396651/

Headlights Fianlly!

I finally found some headlights for my civilian opel truck. Stolen from another kit! For cargo I decided a spare tire, tarp, rope and a piece of board timber. The bucket is PE from ET models. These little gems are great. One word, solder. With the round shape strength is paramount. Tamiya Red for the color and a wash from AK was all that was needed.

The tarp was made from tissue paper and white glue. Crinkled and shaped to fit around the tire and bed. For the dirty bed, pigments and spare leafs were fixed. The empty beer bottle is from the spares box. I still think something is needed for the exterior side of the bed. Maybe some type of lettering for advertisement or something.

























Flickr photo set: https://www.flickr.com/photos/cramsey/sets/72157639481585864/

Friday, July 04, 2014

P-51D Mustang Part II

Happy Independence Day!

Two weeks and allot of bits and pieces finally painted up. I've made some serious progress of the Mustang build so far. To start off all of the parts were given a coat of Mr Surfacer 1200 thinned with lacquer thinner and leveling thinner. Next would come the interior green mix. I had planned to use Gunze Interior green premixed. Turned out just a drop or two was in the bottle. Tamiya to the rescue, or should I say..."*&(@#&$#)@#()@&#@#_*@# @#*@&#!!!!"

I spent a good two days trying to mix up the correct shade of interior green for the interior parts. The instructions call for XF-3 (2parts) & XF-5 (1part). That looked too bright of a green for me. Long story made short, its a mix of colors from Tamiya. First I airbrushed the front engine mount with Alclad II Aluminum, masked with tape then sprayed the interior yellow. The details were painted with Vallejo colors and the kit cooling pipes sprayed with various mixed shades of Alclad.

I decided to replicate the plywood floor of the cockpit without the black anti skid textured paint. Some did not have the paint and had some paint just were the pilots boots would meet the floor. A little artistic license is used with the floor make the cockpit look interesting. I started with Tamiya Wooden Deck Tan and then "paint" some oils onto the surface. I usually let the oils dry a hour or two and then use a brush moistened with spirits to remove the excess and make the grain visible. Sealed with Testors Flat cote, then masking of the appropriate areas for the the black and green sections.

The cockpit with painted with my mix of Tamiya Interior Green with details painted in Vallejo and  then given a satin cote followed by the interior place-card water slide decals. I've never worked with decals of this size. Extremely thin and virtually no flash or edge visible. I was to use Walters setting solution but that seem too take forever & too much product to work. Micro Set/Sol Setting Solution work much better with these. I usually use a enamel dry-brushing technique, this time I used a acrylic Vallejo dark gray for dry-brushing. In this scale it looks like worn edges but not reflective.

Next was the instrument panel. I used Tamiya Semi Gloss black with did not spray good, just way too thick. To be honest I don't know what went wrong. Stripped and repainted with a mix that "laid down" smoother. I should have removed some of the raised bit on the lower bit of the panel for the decals to go around "not to self for next build." Before I airbrushed the interior green onto the forward read section I used Testors aluminum plate, sprayed green and scratch it a bit with water, brush and a blunt plastic tool for the scratching on the rudder pedals. An mix of AK Interactive enamel washes of dirty brown/grey.

All of the bits n' pieces minus my custom wire O2 hose ( "MIA" ) were painted on toothpicks and weathered lightly just with a Vallejo dry brushing. The pipes and wire are a mix of different size lead fly tying fishing wire and hard wire.

I wasn't happy with the ignition rails I made for the V12. Wire kept popping off and the paint was too thick in places. Remade and I'm still not happy. Just a bit too thick. Most will not even been seen once the exhaust is fitted. I think I'm gonna invest in some more stock styrene and metal for scratch building.

The engine it's self was repainted no less then 5 times. First I tried using straight Tamiya Semi-Gloss black. That looked to glossy. Then a goggle of mixes later, I ended up with a mix of semigloss black and flat black. A very light dry brush of gray and a wash with AK grey/brown mix. I'll add some specific heavy oil stains once the engine is mounted.

My favorite part of this build so far is the forward oil tank and firewall. The return line was made from thick solder wire bent to shape with a pipe connector made from tape strips, over coated with superglue to keep it down. The overfill line is lead wire with connectors made from tape and bent to a "U" shape. Primed in Mr Surfacer 1200, then a cote of Alclad Aluminum. I masked the metal supports and then sprayed Tamiyas' Yellow Green. A was of a mix of AK washes of grey/brown color. I'll add heaver oil drips and spatters once most of the engine bay is filled up with the goodies.

For the pilots seat I sprayed a cote of Metalizer Aluminum Plate followed by my mix of Interior green. Scratched up the usual method and then a very light pin wash of AK enamels.

The seat belts took me some time to figure out how they are constructed. There are no directions, just a final picture on how they are to look. No real issues just take your time. I used a tiny bit of CA glue to secure the ends. These belts are much better than the PE Eduard offering, or rather the kits offering as well. Bending them around the frame allows for a more natural look. The two lap belts were glued into their final positions, while the shoulder belts were left unfixed to position them later when everything done or my make up my mind. I did dirty up the white belts with a bit of sand colored pigment, for a used look.

Next will be to test fit all of the interior and engine parts to check for any issues, I don't anticipate any. For now on to the exhaust and upper cowling and rear radiator.

For more images see the Flickr photo set: https://www.flickr.com/photos/cramsey/sets/72157644762009450/